Welcome remark  from president of meiji university

Day 1 (11th of November)

Kosaku Dairokuno (JAPAN)

 Kosaku DAIROKUNO has been Professor of Comparative Politics since 1995 and was Dean of the School of Political Science and Economics, Meiji University between 2009 and 2016. He was appointed Vice President for International Collaboration in 2016. During his tenure, the number of both foreign students and Meiji students studying overseas was doubled. Both numbers had reached more than 2,300 a year. He was subsequently elected President of Me iji University in Dec. 2019 and has taken office since Apr. 2020. He has been an executive board member of the Japan Association of Private Universities and Colleges. He was also Vice President of the Japan Association of Global Competency Education (JAGCE) between 2016 and 2019. He had been the visiting scholars/professors at such institutions as Duke University, Northeastern University, National University of Laos (Lao PDR), and others. His publication includes "Strategies Against Corruption: What is wrong with them?" (Review of Social Sciences, Meiji University, forthcoming), "Engaging Communities in Policy Making and Implementation: Does it make any difference?" Participatory Planning and Budgeting at the Sub-national Level (United Nations, 2005), and "Japan's Pattern of Rewards for High Public Office: A Cultural Perspective" Christopher Hood and B. Guy Peters with Grace O. M. Lee (eds.) Rewards for High Public Office (Routledge 2003), among many others.

Plenary lectures

Plenary Lecture 1 (Day 1, 11th of November)

Changes in medical issues in sport climbing since its inclusion into the Olympic Game

Volker SCHÖFFL (Germany)

Professor, MD, PhD, MHBA

    Prof. Dr. Volker SCHÖFFL is a Head of  Sports Orthopedics, Sports Traumatology, Sports Medicine, Upper Limb Surgery | Deputy Head of  Clinic for  Orthopedics & Trauma Surgery Klinikum Bamberg. He is also an Adjunct Professor of Trauma and Orthopedic Surgery, University Erlangen, Germany, an Adjoint Assistant Professor of Emergency Medicine at the University of Colorado School of Medicine and a Visiting Professor at the School of Clinical and Applied Sciences, Leeds Becket University, UK. He is a Fellow of the Academy of Wilderness Medicine (WMS) and a German Board certified General Surgeon as well as an Orthopedic and Trauma Surgeon. Likewise, he also holds Board degrees for Sports Medicine and Emergency Medicine. Not only that, but he climbs for 35 years and did more than 100 first ascents up to french 8b, mostly in Laos, Thailand, South East Asia and the Frankenjura, Germany. He is a pioneer to Rock climbing in Thailand and was amongst the first group of people climbing in Krabi in 1990. He left his tracks – climbing routes all over South East Asia, Borneo, Laos etc. Furthermore, he established rock climbing in Laos and did over 100 first ascents there. He also boulders, ice climbs and does mountaineering, especially ski mountaineering. Last year, age 52, he could do his hardest boulder problem, “North Star” fb 8a+;V12 in the Frankenjura.


Plenary lecture 2 (Day 2, 12th of November)

Physiology of climbing: building the way to high performance by the C-HIPPER study

Vanesa España-Romero (Spain)

President of the IRCRA
Vanesa finished her PhD at the University of Granada (Spain) and completed her post Doc in Finland, Sweden, United States and UK. As a climber for over 20 years and a Professor at the University of Cadiz (Spain), She has been researching and teaching specifically in rock climbing for years. All of her research varying aspects of Exercise Physiology, Athletic Training, Fitness, Physical Activity and Sports Sciences. Last climbing project performed was named “Climbing High Performance International Project (C-HIPPER Project)”

Plenary lecture 3 (Day 3, 13th of November)

Practical applications of climbing research -- Evidence-informed approaches to training

Taylor Reed (The United States)

Secretary of the IRCRA
Taylor contracts for the United States government as a Senior Analyst specializing in systems thinking, strategy, and long-range planning for catastrophic disasters.  He uses many of the same skills, tools, and approaches from his day job in his approach to teaching climbing to youth interested in national and international competition.  His primary interest is on the relationship of technical and physical factors which lead to effective climbing movement.  Taylor has a Master’s degree in International Relations from the University of Denver, where he spent his graduate work focused on political psychology.  He lives in the state of Maryland where he consults with a small handful of athletes and works on his website: www.beta-angel.com


Special reports of Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games

Day 4 (14th of November)

Sport climbing debut at Tokyo 2020

Toru KOBINATA (Japan)

Vice-president of the IFSC

Sport manager of the TOKYO 2020 Olympic Games










Sport climbing debut at Tokyo 2020 -from national and personal coaches' perspectives

Urs Stöcker (Head Coach of German National Team)

He was a Head Coach of German National Team at the Tokyo Olympic Games.








Hiroshi Yasui (Head coach of Host Country's Team)

He is a Head Coach of Japan Olympic Team, a member of Board of Directors of Japan Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Association (IFSC). He will also be in charge of the Team at the Paris Olympic Games. 











Roman Krajnik (Personal coach of Janja Garnbret)

He is a personal coach of Janja Garnbret, the very first Gold medalist of Women's Combined Event of Sport Climbing at the Tokyo Olympic Games.











Mateusz Miroslaw (National Coach of Polish Speed team)

He is a personal coach of Alexandra Miroslaw and a National coach of Polish Speed Climbing Team. She made her World Record of Women'a speed climbing at the Tokyo Olympic Games.   











Special reports from japan

Special report 1 (Day 1, 11th November)

Looking back my climbing journey

Yuji Hirayama (Japan)


Professional climber







Special report 2 (Day 2, 12th of November)

My climbing enlightenment

Sachi Amma (Japan)

Two time IFSC LEAD WORLD CUP overall champion


Climbing enlightenment






Special report 3 (Day 3, 13th of November)

Potential Benefits of Climbing in Outdoor Education

Masako Harigaya

Masako is a Member of Board of Directors of  the International Camping Fellowship. 









Importance of National Sports Festival for Sport Climbing development in JAPAN

Shinji MIZUMURA (Japan)

 Shinji is a professor of Meiji University and a board member of the Japan Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Association (JMSCA) and is in charge of the committee of the "National Sports Festival" of the JMSCA. He is also a speed climbing coach of Japan  National Climbing Team and a vice-president (East Asia) of IFSC Asian Continental Council.




Special report 3 (Day3, 13th of November)

Para climbing and my life

Koichiro Kobayashi (Japan)

Four-time World Champion of the Para Climbing (B1 or B2) World Championships. He was born in Tokyo in 1968 and is now 53 years old. By encountering climbing at the age of 16, he gains a turning point in his life that he hates sports and has nothing to immerse himself in. At the age of 28, he was diagnosed with progressive eye disease and was sentenced to blindness in the near future, leading to disappointing days. After that, he was supported by various encounters and words, and at the age of 37 he established Monkey Magic, an NPO that promotes climbing for challenging people. Through rock climbing, he energetically develops various social activities, such as expanding exercise opportunities for persons with disabilities and promoting understanding of diversity. He has won the Para climbing World Championship Men's B1 Class for the fourth consecutive time. He is the representative director of NPO Monkey Magic. Co-representative of Japan Para climbing Association











Great Contributor to the 5th IRCRA Congress preparation

Pierre Legreneur (France)

Former president of the IRCRA

Assistant Professor at the faculty of Sport Sciences of Lyon (France)

Biomechanics of sport climbing

First Speed Climbing champion in France